Goodlifer

Mindful Retailing Beyond Urban Zones: Part 2

Abigail Doan — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 16:32:11 +0000

As continuation of our exploration of mindful retailing and sustainable fashion enterprises on Main Street USA, we head up the coast to Cape Cod, MA, and Portland, Maine for a chat with the owners of two locally grown and globally minded businesses. With SHIFT boutique and Chellis Wilson at the helm, the good life seems totally within reach, despite the occasional challenges of recessionary headwinds.

SHIFT Boutique in Hyannis, MA

Night-time event at Shift boutique in Hyannis, MA.

Hyannis, MA, is driven by a tourist economy and SHIFT’s founders and owners, Amy DuFault and Amanda Converse are hardly strangers to the seasonal shopper dynamic. As EcoSalon’s Fashion Editor, Amy, is a national mover and shaker on the eco fashion scene, and coupled with Amanda’s background in Environmental Studies and Policy, they are a rather invincible team. Both are Cape Cod natives, and understand the value of bringing sustainable initiatives to their local community.

GL: How did you get involved with eco fashion retailing?

Amy for Shift: Amanda and I first started working together at a time when I was helping out a bevy of designers who were experiencing major setbacks from the recession. Boutiques were closing, buyers were refusing orders simply because they could not pay, and designers were struggling even more than usual. I told several to send me whatever pieces they could, and I offered to have a traveling “sample sale” where I would sell off their items and forward the checks. Amanda had the first sale with me and never left my side for the next seventeen events. One of our last sales was right next door to where Shift is today. We found the space together and fell in love with it. I have now worked as a marketer, coach, and writer for sustainable designer labels exclusively, so the switch to retail just feels like another layer of supporting designers while doing something I love. Friends surround me every time I walk into Shift.

Shift sustainably chic designer goods.

GL: How has your local community been an ideal and/or challenging locale to set up shop?

Amanda for Shift: One big challenge is that our concept is new to the Cape, and people may have preconceived notions as to what eco-friendly clothing is. We also struggle with a pretty seasonal economy. Although Hyannis has a fairly substantial year-round population, the Cape, in general, slows down considerably after the summer season. However, both Amy and I grew up on Cape Cod, and in this place that carries a lot of weight — the natives tend to support fellow Cape Codders more so than wash-a-shores! We are also both very involved in the community — serving on committees and boards, volunteering for local non-profits and getting involved with business organizations. We have found that as we show our community that we care about it, our fellow members of the community care more about us. Our local customers are loyal and very supportive.

Shift boutique's eco inspired interior.

GL: How do you select the designers/product that you feature at Shift?

Amanda for Shift: We look for designers who share our same value system — people who want to make beautiful clothing while also limiting their impact on the environment. This means looking at their process holistically from seed to sewn, and being conscious of how each step affects our entire ecosystem. These designers are authentic, thoughtful, creative, humble, and passionate about making sustainable designs appealing and available to anyone who is interested.

GL: Do you ever feel that there is resistance to what you are trying to do in your community?

Amy for Shift: The only resistance I think we feel from customers is to spending the amount of money our clothing is priced at, which is ironic seeing as we work REALLY hard to have a selection of clothing at all different price points. That’s a whole other educational process. People need to be made much more aware of how their clothing got to them, on an environmental as well as an ethical level.

Handmade knits and sustainable goods at Shift boutique.

GL: How do you connect your business to the green community beyond?

Amanda for Shift: Amy and I organize Green Drinks Cape Cod (a networking group for people interested in environmental issues), which helps connect us to people in our eco-community. Otherwise, we really depend on social media to connect with the eco-community elsewhere. This isn’t as hard as one might think. Amy is a Facebook and Twitter fanatic, and she has made a lot of contacts through that. And right now the community is so open and willing to help and support others working in the field.

GL: Are there any anecdotes that help illustrate what you and your business partner face as Goodlifers in your region?

Amy for Shift: Amanda and I have both taken long stretches of time away from Cape Cod and can now appreciate where we live with its texture and quality. We also have really great friends and family supporting us. I think about Natalie Chanin sometimes and her journey working for design houses in Europe and one day realizing she needed to go back home to Florence, Alabama to start her own label, Alabama Chanin. The fact that she now employs local women for her very unique “Americana Couture”, is a testimony to the fact that one can make money and still live a beautiful (sustainable) life in the community where they grew up.

Chellis Wilson in Portland, Maine

Chellis Wilson featured art and fashion installation. Photo by Maria Alexandra Vettes.

And as polish to this rather extensive survey on community oriented approaches to retailing, one cannot overlook exquisitely curated Chellis Wilson in Portland, Maine. Nestled in a revitalized smaller city, this oasis for sustainable and artisan-crafted labels is also internationally recognized for its fine offerings. The DownEast Maine mindset celebrates all things well made and timeless, and Chellis Wilson speaks directly to this very spirit.

Chellis Wilson art fashion installation tabletop. Photo by Maria Alexandra Vettes.

GL: How has Portland been an ideal and/or challenging locale to set up shop? You also do quite a few in-store art installations and events. Does this satisfy an aesthetic desire as well?

CW:In many ways people who gravitate towards a place like Maine have an ingrained appreciation for goods made with integrity. Part of that mindset is an appreciation for hard work and individuality, and designer/makers certainly embody those traits. Because of its natural beauty, Maine also cultivates in people a sense of stewardship towards the land. However, customers with an equal appreciation for both aesthetics and the ethics of sustainability are more difficult to find. In more rural areas, someone in my position really has to be willing to educate the local consumer about why price is not the only consideration. Thanks to social media and the Internet, I have as many supportive customers and blog readers in other parts of the country (and the world!) as I have in Portland and environs. This fact alone makes it easier to not have to dilute one’s concept for the sake of financial stability.

Chellis Wilson boutique installation detail. Photo by Maria Alexandra Vettes.

GL: Chellis Wilson looks to not only feature some stunning designer labels but also the work of very talented artists and thinkers. How do you select the designers/products/installations that you decide to showcase?

CW: I am, by nature, an intrepid researcher. Over the years, I have amassed an exhaustive list of talented individuals who, surprisingly, were not often represented in retail settings. I do not attend trade shows because, as a customer, I was often bored with this as so many shops carry similar lines due to trade show sourcing repeats. That said, I have often wished that I could attend certain shows in Paris, Milan, and Tokyo. I want customers to visit and feel as if they have not only found something truly lovely, but also know that they are supporting the fine and honorable work of an individual. At the moment, the vast majority of lines I carry are the work of women who, first and foremost, are motivated by the desire to create articles and objects of beauty. Concepts of sustainability, sane and fair work practices, and the desire to carve out a life’s work in an independent, value-driven way seem to come naturally to all the collections at Chellis Wilson.

If you missed Part 1 of this series, find it here.

Top photo by Maria Alexandra Vettes. Interior of Chellis Wilson.

Mindful Retailing Beyond Urban Zones: Part 1

Abigail Doan — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 22:11:27 +0000

The wonder of the Internet is no doubt linked to the freedom it affords us as we search and connect with like-minded organizations and individuals, and it probably goes without saying that forays in the online retail realm are bolstered by this activity. I am not a big shopper myself, so I am thankful that the e-boutiques of the web allow me to thoughtfully browse at my own discretion and comparison shop in ways that I have never before been able to.

As some one who grew up in small town America, I also know how vital it is to cultivate a connection with brick-and-mortar retailers on Main Street as a means to insure economic vitality and sustainable zoning options within local communities. With this in mind, I decided to reach out to several eco fashion retailers who have consciously set up shop in locales that are a bit off the beaten track as sources for sustainable style offerings. Each is an outpost of smart curation, Goodlifer attitude, and inspiration for personal activism.

What do Charleston, WV, Chatham, NY, Hyannis, MA, and Portland, ME all have in common as Northeastern U.S. locales? They all are hosts to beautifully curated shops that feature state-of-the-art fashion collections and artisan-made labels. These businesses are also run by amazing women who have become leaders in their communities as outspoken advocates for green living, fair trade practices, animal rights, and what one even might call, ‘mindful retailing’. Each of the following parties also view themselves as being educators in the dissemination of information that is vital for decoding sustainability issues and style that leads to change.

Cow Jones Industrials in Chatham, NY

Cow Jones Industrials, Chatham NY.

Cow Jones Industrials is located approximately two and a half hours north of NYC, and as a store that could potentially be the most influenced by an urban center, it thrives as a uniquely rural boutique nestled in the world-famous Hudson River Valley. Donna Oakes, the founder and creative force behind Cow Jones’ vegan clothing and accessories offerings, is committed to highlighting the best names in this niche, and her following is a devoted one. I am particularly in awe of Donna’s bold vision of bringing sustainable brands to Chatham, NY as I recall just how slim the pickings were while growing up on my family’s farm just one county south.

DeNada cowl web scarf, handmade in Peru using vegan-friendly acrylic yarn.

GL: How did you get involved with eco fashion retailing? Tell us more about the “mission” of Cow Jones Industrials.

CJ: When I first opened my shop close to three years ago, I did not really think of myself as an eco fashion retailer. At that point in time, I had been a vegan for almost 20 years, and I knew first hand how difficult it was to find beautiful, quality vegan shoes, handbags, coats, etc. I do not have a background in fashion, but I love the idea of clothing as a form of body art. I strongly believe that what we opt to wear is not at all trivial.

My “mission” is still evolving. First and foremost, it would be that I aim to show that veganism is not about deprivation – that is, the choice to not wear products from animals does not doom you to a dull life of canvas shoes and shapeless clothing. I really enjoy educating my customers about sustainable fashion, and I am especially thrilled to be able to support ethical, independent designers who use eco-friendly materials and are committed to fair labor practices.

GG2G Fortune Cookie Clutch, made out of recycled vinyl from restaurants.

GL: Who is your typical customer? How do they typically find out about Cow Jones? Do you also sell to tourists/out-of-towners? If so, what sorts of comments do they make when they come across your boutique?

CJ: It’s hard to pinpoint who my typical customer is. There are women who love my shop strictly for the aesthetics of the products. For them, the ethics are secondary, or in some cases, not even a factor. I have a number of customers who visit regularly because they are vegan/vegetarian and are so appreciative of having a shop where they do not have to inspect the labels. These are the customers who will travel distances to get here.

Tourists and out-of-towners are often surprised to find my shop in Chatham, NY, and they occasionally comment that it is something that they would expect to find in NYC. A number of customers come in and talk about how some one in their family is vegan and how much that person would like my boutique. Sometimes it is this visitor’s first up-close look at vegan products, and they are genuinely amazed by what they discover – especially when they learn about Cri de Coeur and olsen Haus footwear.

Cow Jones vegan shoe designers, olsen Haus and Cri de Coeur.

GL: Do you ever feel that there is resistance to what you are trying to do in your community?

CJ: I have received comments about the prices, but this gives me the opportunity to explain why the products cost what they do. When people hear that many of the products are made in the U.S., it makes them quite happy. They also especially like it when the materials used are from recycled sources.

The most expensive styles that I have had to date were the winter coats from Vaute Couture’s first collection. The price tag was higher than most people were used to seeing for a winter coat, but when they heard the story behind it, they loved it, i.e. the contest that Leanne Mai-ly Hilgart set up for the designs, the voting, the search for warm and sustainable fabrics, the manufacturing in Chicago at a living wage, the portions of proceeds going to Farm Sanctuary. Even if the customers could not afford them, they really enjoyed learning the back story. It is one thing that differentiates an eco-shop from just another store. We are full of stories about wonderful people doing wonderful things in the fashion world.

Vegan winter coats from Vaute Couture.

GL: How do you connect your business to the eco-activist and/or animal rights community beyond the walls of Cow Jones Industrials?

CJ: I frequently donate products for silent auctions at fundraising events sponsored by organizations such as Equine Advocates, Woodstock Farm Animal Sanctuary, Mercy for Animals, and Vegan Outreach. This year I am one of the sponsors for the vegan fashion show at the Albany Vegetarian Expo in October. I also maintain a table of brochures from various animal sanctuaries, along with a mini “library” of books (such as Jonathan Safran Foer’s Eating Animals) that customers can freely borrow.

Mission Savvy in Charleston, WV

Sustainable fashion on the racks at Mission Savvy.

One cannot discuss vegan fashion retailing and animal rights activism without checking in with Jennifer Miller of Mission Savvy in Charleston, WV. Though less than a year old, Mission Savvy has done a national trunk show tour with their eco fashion offerings and just recently set up shop in downtown Charleston. Jennifer had some very interesting things to say about the challenges she faces as an independent retailer with a rather compassionate outreach mission.

Sexy Scoop top by SUST & Alder Dress by Eco Skin.

GL: Tell me more about the “mission” in Mission Savvy.

MS: Mission Savvy pairs a range of eco fashion designs with pressing issues in animal welfare/rights to create an “expressive style” where consumers can feel comfortable and stylish about their clothing choices as well as confident as advocates.

Our featured designer collections each represent a different animals rights issue: Dream, Compassion, Freedom, Instinct, and Voice.

My personal goal for Mission Savvy is to try very hard to be an out spoken, though approachable, encouraging, honest, and a realistic representative for animal welfare issues. (And when I say try, I really mean it, because it does not take a lot to get my blood boiling if I sense an ounce of disrespect for the lives of animals.)

Alaya Halter Top by Alchem1st & Leslie top by Toggery.

One of the reasons I chose to operate in a small town like Charleston, WV, is because of the pressing need for improved legislation, lobbying, and education surrounding these issues. The local community currently has no available resources for increased protection. I basically decided to create a store that would provide me with the platform (and pay) to be an active community leader, lobbyist, and on-call “wildlife expert.”

I have a personal relationship with all of the designers I offer, and this is very important to me. I need to feel like we are working together and can have open dialogue about joint challenges and successes. Environmental awareness and animal welfare do not always go hand in hand, so the fact that all of the designers I buy from are excited about the idea of Mission Savvy using their designs to represent issues in animal welfare is HUGE for me.

Mission Savvy's in-store fiber and textile display.

GL: Do you ever feel that there is resistance to what you are trying to do on Main Street Charleston and beyond?

MS: I have a large, growing network of support here in Charleston. The community loves local, new ideas that bring inventiveness into the State and fosters an environment for creative ideas that can help the community catch up with the rest of the nation.

West Virginians are very proud of their State, which makes it very difficult to move away from traditional notions. There is a strong working class here, and a growing young professional group that wants to improve the way we do things, i.e. the way downtown looks (bring in more artists, loft living spaces, green roofs, etc.) as well as recycling initiatives, but there is very little support for the funding of these new ideas.

Mission Savvy designer trunkshow.

And we don’t get tourists here, so I really must generate a local following as well as cultivate relationships with like-minded individuals in the eco fashion community at large. What I love about being here, though, is connecting with the everyday person who is doing amazing things for the environment and for animal advocacy, and encouraging them to continue with their efforts and activism.

Continue reading part 2 of our survey of Mindful Retailing Beyond Urban Zones here.

Top photo: Leanne Mai-ly Hilgart of Vaute Couture, racks at Mission Savvy & shoes by Cri de Coeur.

Holly’s Oatmeal – A Perfect Blend

Stephanie Zonis — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 14:36:46 +0000

One day, Holly, a restaurant owner in Connecticut, decided that her morning oatmeal could stand some improvement. After many trials, she discovered that a blend of seven certified-organic and kosher grains (including multiple types of oats, golden flax seeds and triticale), combined with a protein-boosting ingredient and some good dried fruits/nuts (like apricots, goji berries, or almonds), resulted in a flavorful hot cereal with more texture than plain old oatmeal.

These new oatmeal blends contained no sodium or added sugars; they had no cholesterol or saturated fat or trans fats; and they had 8 grams of fiber per serving (including a full day’s worth of soluble fiber). The protein content, higher than that of any other oatmeal, also made these cereals satisfying. She originally made them for friends and family, but soon began offering the cereals in her restaurant, where they outsold everything else she made. After seven years of seeing customers rave over her cereal blends, she decided to close her restaurant and take the cereal blends public, and thus was Holly’s Oatmeal born.

Holly's Oatmeal: Apricot Maple Nut, Cranberry Almond & Goji Berry blends.

In an era when Americans are being strongly urged to consume far more whole grains than most of us currently do, it’s good to know that the different varieties of Holly’s Oatmeal have at least 38 grams of whole grain (most of us should be getting at least 48 grams per day). The grains for these cereals are hand-blended; machine blending would result in grains bring crushed, which would mean less texture in the end product. True, these aren’t instant oatmeals, but they’re so much more rewarding in terms of taste and texture that their brief cooking time (6 minutes) is more than worthwhile. Presently, there are six varieties, including two blends for special diets, Gluten Free and Cranberry Gluten Free (the gluten free blends have 5 grams of fiber per serving).

Holly's Oatmeal: Wickedly Plain, Gluten Free & Gluten Free Cranberry blends.

While I haven’t tried the gluten free blends, my favorites are the Goji Berry and Wickedly Plain. I tell you, a bowl of this hot cereal, drizzled with a little Grade B maple syrup, makes it worthwhile getting out of bed in the morning, no matter what Mother Nature has in store for you outside (incidentally, many’s the time I’ve eaten a bowl of one of these blends for lunch or even dinner, so don’t think you have to restrict your consumption to breakfast).

Holly, a restaurant owner in Connecticut, decided that her morning oatmeal could stand some improvement. Her blends quickly became popular and Holly's Oatmeal was born.

Note that, although Holly’s Oatmeal is made with organic and kosher grains, the cereals are not certified organic or kosher (right now, this is a very small business, and these certifications are prohibitively expensive). If you cannot find these cereals in a nearby store, fear not; online ordering is always an option. It’s time to start eating better and enjoying it, too.

Top photo by Chapendra, Creative Commons.

H Fredriksson: Sustainable Swedish Fashion in NYC

Johanna Björk — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 03:22:06 +0000

Stockholm Fashion Week is fully under way, and for those of us who can’t be there, I decided to find out what Swedish design in New York City looks like. I caught up with Helena Fredriksson, an accomplished fashion designer known for her photographic, expressive patterns and modern yet timeless silhouettes. Since she starting her line H Fredriksson in 2004, she has worked out of her studio in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. For years, she showed at every New York Fashion Week, but has now decided to focus her energy on other parts of her craft. Besides two collections per year, she also creates costumes for stage performers, and has even designed uniforms for a Japanese Sweet Shop.

Designer Helena Fredriksson.

What brought you to New York?
A curiosity for the intensity and cultural mix of the city and the search for a new perspective.

What is your background?
I went to art school in both Sweden and NYC for a short while. I never studied fashion, instead I studied photography, painting printmaking etc., which I think is why those elements are still a big part of the H Fredriksson aesthetic.

H Fredriksson F/W 10

Do you see a difference between European and American design?
Yes and no, I think that European design historically has been more conceptual and darker in its aesthetics, while American fashion was sporty and more conventional in the past. I think the last decade has blurred the line and there is now a spectrum of design identities without a clear connection to place.

You state that your line is “inspired by the dark psychology of Bergman films and contemporary European painting” and that it has “an air of melancholic beauty, drawn from the austere silhouettes of the Nordic landscape.” A great description that I feel is very fitting. Do you think there is something to the “dark Swede” mythology that influences all Swedish design?
I am sure that the climate and the partially constrained culture creates a kind of darkness and edge in the expression, whether it is in design, art, music or film.

H Fredriksson F/W 10

A lot of great design that comes out of Scandinavia is simple in both cut as well as color, why do you think that is? Are we just practical?
I think Scandinavian culture and people have a love for simplicity and pared down design, where the form, idea and subtleness speak stronger than something excessive. I think this idea exists in the culture on several different levels.

I agree. Your line is very sustainable minded, when did you first decide that would be an important part of your design?
I grew up in Sweden, which I think brought me awareness about the world at a very early age. That consciousness is part of my being, and I think, as a designer, the choice to work sustainably was only an extension of my view of the world in general.

H Fredriksson F/W 10

All your clothing is manufactured in New York City, was that a conscious choice on your part? Why?
I like to know that my garments are made by craftsmen and women that are working under fair conditions and earning what they deserve. I like to know that by producing local I am helping save an industry and craftsmanship that has been an important part of New York for centuries, and is now under threat to not survive the tendency to move all production overseas to save money and lower prices. I think that creating something well made, under fair conditions and without unnecessary shipping emissions is worth paying a few more dollars for. Maybe we buy fewer things to make up the difference? The funny thing is that there are many brands that produce in China while still pricing their garments at more than twice of most sustainable brands. So, the logic is kind of off.

Many designers claim they cannot afford to move their production from overseas, but on the other hand, like you say, most people are willing to pay more for sustainable produced clothing, how can we bridge that divide?
I think that every designer and consumer makes a choice in how we spend our money, not always with the most noble reasons. Unfortunately, this choice is often made by picking the cheapest option, with no thought of who is really paying for our savings. I hope this is changing with a rising awareness and that more designers and consumers realize what that choice entails in the big picture.

H Fredriksson F/W 10

Many of your prints are created from your own drawings and photographs, right?
Yes, I Create all my fabric prints from photographs and drawings that I make, I see the prints as the identity and personal story of the collection. Many of the photographs are collected on my journeys around the world and they each have their own story.

You also make custom pieces for performers, tell me about that.
I love to collaborate with other artists and I’ve created costumes for several performers and artists over the past few years, among others: Wangechi Mutu & Imani Uzuri for Performa, Ana Matronic for the Scissor Sisters, Olof Persson for me-everybody, and Nancy Garcia for The Kitchen, just to name a few.

H Fredriksson F/W 10

One of Fredriksson's photographs.

What advice do you have for people who want to start their own fashion line?
Make a strategy, be focused in your design concept, find a team that has shares your vision and heart, start small, promote, be patient and get ready to work hard and be poor for a while.

What gives you hope for the future?
An increased awareness about our planet, where sustainable solutions is on the agenda for the world leaders in a whole new way and where the idea to consume less and be thoughtful in our choices is more central in our society than before.

One of Fredriksson's sketches.

What does the Good Life mean to you?
The Good Life means to live with knowledge and pleasure in life, to share your experiences with people you love and to be curious about the world and never stop learning from others. I believe that living in the moment, sharing and not judging is what makes us truly happy.

Ditto that. Find H Fredriksson at select shops in New York, California, Denver, Miami, Tokyo, and online.

Trouble Silencing Climate Skeptics? There’s an App for That!

Johanna Björk — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 01:48:50 +0000

If you’ve ever found yourself in a conversation with a climate change skeptic, you’ve most likely experienced the intense frustration of being unable to disprove their illogical reasoning. Often, the perfect answer will come to you much later. Ever wish you had all the top climate information at your fingertips?

Well, if you’re the owner of a smart phone, you do. The “Skeptical Science” app, developed by physicist John Cook of SkepticalScience.com, is now available (for free!) for iphones, Android phones, and Nokia phones.

The app lets you browse arguments by Top 10 most used or 3 main categories — “It’s not happening,” “It’s not us,” and “It’s not that bad.”

Says Cook, “The app looks at many arguments from climate skeptics and identifies a common pattern – that skeptics focus on small pieces of the puzzle while neglecting the full body of evidence…[it] aims to give you the full picture, with all the evidence, scientific context and links to peer-reviewed research. It has another useful function – users can send me reports on which skeptical arguments they encounter.”

Thanks to Cook, and the app developers, smart phone users now have a terrific resource “that puts the science at your fingertips, along with the most commonly used arguments by the disinformers and doubters and how to answer them.” Shine Technologies developed both the iphone and Android apps; and Jean-François Barsoum created the Nokia app using the Ovi App Wizard.

We here at Goodlifer usually don’t reblog, but felt that this app is something you all should know about. [via Worldchanging & Climate Progress]

Download the app for your iPhone, Android phone or Nokia phone.

Allergic to Peanuts? Try Sunflower Seed Butter Cups

Stephanie Zonis — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 16:10:11 +0000

Chocolate and peanut butter is one of life’s great flavor pairings. But chances are that, even if you’re not avoiding peanuts these days, you know someone who is. Maybe they have to avoid tree nuts as well. How do you allow these people to experience the pleasure of a really good chocolate nut butter cup? It used to be that such individuals were out of luck, but Seth Ellis Chocolatier of Boulder, CO has come to the rescue with their Sun Cups.

As you might have guessed from the name, Sun Cups are fluted chocolate cups filled with sunflower seed butter. Now, you might have tried sunflower seed butter before, especially if you’re a child of the 60s. It’s got a very strong flavor and can taste extremely “green”. But before you get nervous about the sunflower seed butter overwhelming the taste of the chocolate, you should know that the clever folks at Seth Ellis Chocolatier have found a means of taming the sunflower seed butter. In a nutshell (so to speak), they blend it with white chocolate.

Ingredients in the dark chocolate Sun Cups: Dark Chocolate (cocoa liquor, cocoa butter, cane sugar, soy lecithin), Sunflower Seed, White Chocolate (sugar, milk powder, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, vanilla), Cocoa Butter, Glucose, Sea Salt. All ingredients except Sea Salt are certified organic. The chocolate and cocoa butter are Fair Trade Certified.

This combination tones down the sweetness of the white chocolate while rendering the sunflower seed butter a little sweeter and much milder. This filling doesn’t quite have the same texture as a peanut butter filling; it’s a bit stiffer, but melts beautifully on your tongue. There’s a little sea salt added to the Sun Cups, too, but it isn’t excessive. Sun Cups are available in milk chocolate and dark chocolate varieties. I’d tell you which I prefer but for the fact that I can’t make up my mind; I enjoy both kinds equally.

Sun Cups are available in milk chocolate and dark chocolate varieties.

In addition to being peanut-free and free of tree nuts, these cups are certified organic, gluten-free, and kosher for dairy. The cacao used is Rainforest Alliance Certified, a designation that represents and promotes sustainable agricultural practices. The packaging is even made of a special kind of film that you can compost!

Besides the Sun Cups, Seth Ellis makes several other delectable treats. Their mint ganache is made with fresh organic cream infused with peppermint and spearmint, organic butter and organic dark chocolate.

These organic lemon slices are candied slowly (over 25 days) using a traditional European method to preserve the intense lemon flavors. The slices are then quartered and enrobed in all-natural dark chocolate.

Seth Ellis Chocolatier was founded by three friends, brothers Rick and Neil Levine and David Lurie. All three have spent a lot of time working in chocolate and food, and have a love for and fascination with chocolate and the way people respond to it. The business is driven by a set of assumptions concerning openness and honesty, committment to excellence as well as full and honest disclosure of ingredients and process. Underlying all of these are two basic questions they ask themselves to test if they’re on the right track: Are we doing good? and Are we having fun?

The raspberry truffle's ganache is crafted from fresh organic cream and butter, organic raspberries and velvety dark chocolate.

The pretty ginger truffles are made from 66% dark chocolate, splattered with cocoa butter colored with bright, natural colors, and filled with a ganache made from organic cream infused with fresh organic yellow ginger from Puna, Hawaii.

Distribution in retail stores may be a little spotty on the East Coast right now, but should improve soon. Sun Cups are already available in many Western retailers, such as Whole Foods Markets, QFC, Central Market, Sprouts, and PCC. However, mail order is always an option; you can find Sun Cups at amazon.com, peanutfreeplanet.com and naturalcandystore.com. To read up on the company itself (and they have some interesting information), head over to www.sethellischocolatier.com. If you would like to learn more, there is quite a bit of interesting information on Seth Ellis’ blog/website.

Chocolate and sunflower seed butter might just become a new classic duo!

Shadowplay: The Right Kind of Statement Jewelry

Johanna Björk — Thu, 05 Aug 2010 17:03:32 +0000

I could imagine wearing the same outfit every day, as long as I could accessorize it with amazing jewelry. Shadowplay by designer Heather Goldberg certainly fits that bill. No two pieces are alike, and all are hand-crafted using 100% natural fibers such as bamboo, cotton, silk, cashmere, mohair and organic and naturally dyed merino wool. Closures are certified fairtrade black silver and crystallized Swarowski elements add some bling.

Shadowplay designer Heather Goldberg. Portrait by Ye Rin Mok.

Goldberg is a former intern of New York design collective ThreeasFour and LA-based label Band of Outsiders. Shadowplay was launched in November of 2009 and is based in LA (the name comes from a Joy Division song). I recently had the opportunity to ask Heather Goldberg a few questions about her philosophies and how she got where she is today.

What is your background?
I grew up in Miami and went to a high school that had a visual and performing arts program. It was almost like doing an undergrad in fine art, but in high school. There, I studied 2-D and 3-D art; painting, photography, and sculpture. It was really an amazing education and experience. From there, I decided I wanted to come to art school in Los Angeles, to study Fashion Design at Otis College of Art and Design. So, with my bags packed I drove the bright yellow Ford Focus that my dad gave me when I was sixteen across the country and landed in Los Angeles. I received my BFA last year, having majored in Fashion Design with a huge focus on Art History and Theory.

What were some of the biggest challenges you faced along the way?
The pressures of wanting to grow and expand, but still wanting it to remain small and very personal.

What advice can you give people looking to start their own jewelry company?
Do it your way.

Where do you find inspiration?
Mostly from feelings, moods, experiences, words, music. I like to translate those very psychological things into a visual language.

Why was it important to you to use organic and fairtrade materials?
It really just came as a natural and obvious thing to me. The way I eat and live my life definitely has a direct connection with wanting the materials I use in my work to also be very conscious.

Five Quickies for Heather:

City or Country? City for the daily, country for breaks.
Rainbow Colors or Monochrome? Rainbow colors in my aura, monochrome in my mind.
Early Morning Yoga or Dance All Night? Early morning yoga to start my day after I’ve danced all night.
Minimalism or Opulence? Minimalism in my life, opulence in my work.
Summer Rain or Winter Sun? Summer rain reminds me of home, winter sun reminds me of here. For me, it all relies on the context…

Shadowplay’s necklaces truly are statement pieces. But it’s right kind of statement. You’re showing that you care not only about style, but the story and ethics behind it. I’m sure it would be very hard to wear one of these gorgeous pieces to a party and not get compliments and comments. What a great way to start a conversation about the importance and beauty of sustainable choices!

The Story of Cosmetics: Myths & Facts

Johanna Björk — Tue, 03 Aug 2010 04:33:07 +0000

Would you fly an airline that only inspects 20% of their planes? Probably not. But did you know that less than 20% of all chemicals in cosmetics have been assessed for safety? The average U.S. woman uses 12 personal care products every day (men use 6, on average), each of them contains a dozen or more chemicals. Without the proper testing procedures in place, there is simply no way of knowing what this daily exposure does to our systems.

In anticipation of soon-to-be-introduced Congressional legislation to regulate personal care products—The Story of Stuff Project recently released The Story of Cosmetics, a 7-minute animated movie. Hosted by Annie Leonard, creator of viral video hit The Story of Stuff (viewed over 10 million times so far), as well as The Story of Cap & Trade (which was released online in December 2009 and has garnered over 600,000 views) and The Story of Bottled Water (one of the most viral films on the internet the week of its March 20th, 2010 release, it has over 700,000 views to date).

Major loopholes in U.S. federal law allow the $50 billion beauty industry to put nearly any chemical into personal care products, even chemicals linked to cancer and birth defects, with no required safety assessment and inadequate labeling requirements—making cosmetics among the least-regulated consumer products on the market. How scary is that?

These days, even babies are being born pre-polluted.

There has been growing public concern about carcinogens and endocrine disruptors in personal care and other common consumer products. In May, the President’s Cancer Panel sounded the alarm about the health risks of the understudied and largely unregulated toxic chemicals used by millions of Americans in their daily lives. Yet, few mainstream media outlets will even go near the topic. Why, you wonder? Have you counted the number of cosmetics ads in any token glossy magazine lately? The collective persuading power possessed by the big personal care and cosmetics companies is tremendous.

"Toxins In, Toxins Out"—there is no way around it.

“The beauty industry needs a makeover. For the first time in 70 years, we will have a real chance to pass national legislation that would eliminate chemicals linked to cancer and birth defects from the products women, men and children put on their bodies on a daily basis,” said Stacy Malkan, spokesperson for the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.

The Story of Cosmetics companion website will serve as an interactive launch pad for information and action steps for consumers. The site provides viewers with opportunities to learn more about forthcoming safe cosmetics legislation, safer products, and how to get involved with the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.

The personal care product industry is still working from a 1950s mindset when people were totally swept up in dreams of “better living through chemistry”. In all that excitement, they forgot to worry about human health impacts.

“We need common-sense laws based on the precautionary principle,” said Annie Leonard, the Director of The Story of Stuff Project. “That means that when we’re dealing with hazardous chemicals, just err on the side of caution. Let’s not debate how much lead should be allowed in lipstick—just get toxic chemicals out of our products!”

So, let’s bust some myths, shall we?

MYTH VS. FACT

Myth: If products are for sale at a supermarket, drugstore, or department store cosmetics counter, they must be safe.
Fact: The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has no authority to require companies to assess ingredients or products for safety. FDA does not review or approve the vast majority of cosmetic products or ingredients before they go on the market. The agency conducts pre-market reviews only for certain color additives and active ingredients in cosmetics classified as over-the-counter drugs.

Myth: The cosmetics industry effectively polices itself, making sure all ingredients meet a strict standard of safety.
Fact: In its more than 30-year history, the industry’s safety panel (the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, or CIR) has assessed fewer than 20 percent of cosmetics ingredients and found only a handful of ingredients or chemical groups to be unsafe. Its recommendations are not binding on companies.

Once you start learning about the toxics in many common personal care products, your bathroom can easily start feeling like a mine field.

Myth: The government prohibits dangerous chemicals in personal care products, and companies wouldn’t risk using them.
Fact: Cosmetics companies may use any ingredient or raw material, except for color additives and a few prohibited substances (such as vinyl chloride and cow parts), without government review or approval.
• More than 500 products sold in the U.S. contain ingredients banned in cosmetics in Japan, Canada or the European Union.
• Nearly 100 products contain ingredients considered unsafe by the International Fragrance Association.
• A wide range of nanomaterials whose safety is in question may be common in personal care products.
• 22% of all personal care products may be contaminated with the cancer-causing impurity 1,4-dioxane, including many children’s products.
• 60% of sunscreens contain the potential hormone disruptor oxybenzone that readily penetrates the skin and contaminates the bodies of 97% of Americans.
• 61% of tested lipstick brands contain residues of lead.

Myth: Cosmetic ingredients are applied to the skin and rarely get into the body. When they do, levels are too low to matter.
Fact: People are exposed by breathing in sprays and powders, swallowing chemicals on the lips or hands or absorbing them through the skin. Studies find evidence of health risks. Biomonitoring studies have found cosmetics ingredients—like phthalate plasticizers, paraben preservatives, the pesticide triclosan, synthetic musks, and sunscreens—inside the bodily fluids of men, women, children and even the cord blood of newborn babies. Many of these chemicals are potential hormone disruptors that may increase cancer risk. Products commonly contain penetration enhancers to drive ingredients deeper into the skin. Studies find health problems in people exposed to common fragrance and sunscreen ingredients, including elevated risk for sperm damage, feminization of the male reproductive system, and low birth weight in girls.

Good news is that green chemists are developing substances that are designed to be safe and non-toxic in the first place. European governments have required the removal of many toxic chemicals and companies have figured out how to comply.

Myth: Products made for children or bearing claims like “hypoallergenic” are safer choices.
Fact: Most cosmetic marketing claims are unregulated, and companies are rarely if ever required to back them up, even for children’s products. A company can use a claim like “hypoallergenic” or “natural” “to mean anything or nothing at all,” and while “[m]ost of the terms have considerable market value in promoting cosmetic products to consumers,… dermatologists say they have very little medical meaning.” An investigation of more than 1,700 children’s body care products found that 81 percent of those marked “gentle” or “hypoallergenic” contained allergens or skin and eye irritants.

Myth: FDA would promptly recall any product that injures people.
Fact: FDA has no authority to require recalls of harmful cosmetics. Furthermore, manufacturers are not required to report cosmetics-related injuries to the agency. FDA relies on companies to report injuries voluntarily.

Since 1938, the FDA has banned just 8 out of over 12,000 ingredients used in cosmetics. They don’t even require that all of the ingredients be listed on the label. It's time for a change.

Myth: Consumers can read ingredient labels and avoid products with hazardous chemicals.
Fact: Federal law allows companies to leave many chemicals off labels, including nanomaterials, contaminants, and components of fragrance. Fragrance may include any of 3,163 different chemicals, none of which are required to be listed on labels. Fragrance tests reveal an average of 14 hidden compounds per formulation, including potential hormone disruptors and diethyl phthalate, a compound linked to sperm damage.

Myth: Cosmetics safety is a concern for women only.
Fact: Surveys show that on average, women use 12 products containing 168 ingredients every day, men use 6 products with 85 ingredients, and children are exposed to an average of 61 ingredients daily. The large majority of these chemicals have not been assessed for safety by the industry-funded CIR safety panel.

So, now that we have cleared up some common misconceptions and watched The Story of Cosmetics, how about we all go clean out or bathroom cabinets? Use GoodGuide to look up products that you are unsure about, shop from trusted sources like Futurenatural, and only buy what you know to be safe and natural.

Bright Young Things Need But One LBD

Johanna Björk — Thu, 29 Jul 2010 15:50:41 +0000

Sometimes restrictions breed incredible creativity. Such was the case with the Uniform Project (which I wrote about last year), where Sheena Matheiken wore the same dress every day for a whole year, and used only vintage accessories to style it. The designer behind the now famous little black dress is Eliza Starbuck, who recently decided to make the dress available to everyone, under the name Bright Young Things.

The Bright Young Things Premier Edition is $185. Made-to-order in a high-quality 97% Cotton, 3% Lycra blend piqué weave fabric. Comfortable year-round, and for any occasion.

Starbuck herself is a true inspiration, part classic beauty and part fairy-tale fairy, she is an avid thrift store shopper and stone collector. “When I first met Sheena Matheiken of The Uniform Project in 2008, I had come to the conclusion that fashion made a better creative outlet than a meaningful career.” She had decided to walk away from the fashion industry and seek out something different that the mass consumer culture it perpetuates. “So when Sheena told me she was looking for someone who could make her a dress, I was hesitant. But after she explained the concept behind the Uniform Project, I was excited at the prospect of using my skills as a fashion designer for a charitable cause that would also promote sustainable culture.”

Bright Young Things designer Eliza Starbuck thrift shopping.

As the Uniform Project gained in popularity, people started asking where they could buy one of the dresses for themselves. Starbuck was, again, reluctant. “At first I shrugged off the request. I still did not want to get into the business of making or selling clothing and I was wary of taking on production on a commercial level. But the inquiries kept coming, along with amazing stories from U.P fans that had started their own Little Black Dress challenges and who wanted to wear my dress for their own causes. In general, there seemed to be growing demand for my dress design as women made the shift to save their money and get creative with what they already had. That was the epiphany: if I could offer women a dress that functions as a versatile base palette for their personal style and creativity while giving them the opportunity to support a good cause or a positive change in their lifestyles, then maybe looking into production wasn’t such a bad idea… If by buying my one dress, women would forego buying five cheap and trendy dresses this year, that would be a big feat. Keeping that much junk out of the landfills alone would make production worthwhile to me.”

Production is something that more designers need to pay attention to. It is often done overseas by workers that are underpaid and treated badly. Child labor is also not uncommon. There has been much attention paid to this in the press in recent years, but few people still manufacture locally. Says Starbuck: “As a designer in the fashion industry, there were always certain disconnects between the process of design and the process of production. I would submit my sketches and then, as if by magic, sample garments would arrive 2-3 weeks later from China. This never sat well with me. A process so fast had to be cutting corners and taking major short cuts, and from the other side of the world I could never see or know what was really going on. With the launch of Bright Young Things, I decided that I wanted to be a part of my production process. The best way to do that, I figured, was to produce locally in New York City. By doing so, I not only help to support the local economy – I can also visit the factory anytime.”

Even though the factory is in America, nearly all of the workers are immigrants who need the work to maintain their life in America and to support their families back home.

Care labels are carefully printed directly onto the pockets.

How does one cut the pattern pieces for 365 dresses at once? With a special fabric-cutting gig-saw, of course!

The name is as clever as the dress (which is reversible and infinitely convertible), so what is a Bright Young Thing? “A Bright Young Thing is defined as someone who is open minded, optimistic, playful, appreciates beauty and still is conscious about their actions effects on the world around them. A conscious Joy-maker. It has nothing to do with your age, it has everything to do with being nimble, inventive, and enginuitive within the social, physical and environmental constructs of our times,” says Starbuck.

The Style Challengers: Leah Chernikoff or Fashionista, Yuka Yoneda of Ecouterre, Emma Grady of Treehugger, Roberta Correia of It's Only Fashion, Pamela Castillo of Market Publique, Tiffany of Triskaidekaphobia & Six Six Sick, eco model Summer Rayne Oakes, yours truly and Felicia Walker Benson of ThisThatBeauty. Which look is your favorite look? Photo collage via kaightnyc.blogspot.com.

The Style Challenge is a fun new project, where Starbuck invited some of her favorite Bright Young Things (I am honored to be one of them) from NYC to vintage store Cobblestones on the Lower East Side. She gave us one of her LBDs and let us loose amongst the racks to come up with two looks each. I can assure you it was lots of fun (visit BYT’s Facebook page and vote by “liking” the daily post of the Style Challenger you like the best). The Challengers came up with looks that were as creative and innovative as they were different — all using the very same dress.

One of my looks in the Style Challenge.

So how often does Starbuck herself wear her LBD? “I’ve worn my LBD for a month straight, during my wear-a-thon, but now that is over and I’d say I wear it at least two days of the week. It really is the go to dress in my closet, and I always feel really put together when I put it on. It is the answer to the ‘I don’t have anything to wear’ conundrum.” Her favorite way to style it depends on the weather. “My wear-a-thon was one of the hottest June-July months I’ve ever seen, so I was really enjoying wearing it open. But my default way to wear it is with a belt. I think it’s really flattering when you accentuate the waistline that way.”

: Starbuck on Day 19 of hear wear-a-thon.

The Uniform Project and the Bright Young Things Style Challenge are both excellent examples of how much one can do with one single garment. The takeaway? We can make do with less, as long as we make sure the pieces we have are well-made, timeless, durable and versatile — the basic tenets of slow fashion. But is the mainstream ready to adopt this way of thinking about fashion?

“Absolutely,” says Starbuck, “it’s already happening. If not for environmental reasons, then surely for economic reasons. The thing about sustainable fashion is that it doesn’t actually have to be this selfless reprieval of fashion. Being sustainable is as easy as flipping a switch in your consumer habits and being more conscious of your waste. It’s a matter of buying fewer items, for more money, that are fully functioning and well made. Or buying second-hand, or not buying anything at all and just getting creative with what you have through styling or DIY refashioning. As more bloggers take on these kinds of challenges and causes, I think it will seep into the mainstream until it is mainstream. Really it seems to be everywhere I look in New York, so if that’s any gauge, it’s already in the water.” Drink up.

Native American Snacks: Tanka Bar

Stephanie Zonis — Tue, 27 Jul 2010 01:46:56 +0000

This is directed toward you, Mr. or Ms. Constantly-On-The-Go. Yes, you, making do with whatever you can find when you need a snack. Too often, you reach for coffee and a doughnut; overly-caloric, excessively sweet granola bars or, even worse, fast food. Why not try something a little more dietarily virtuous for a change? Fresh fruit or veggies would be great, sure, but sometimes you just want a snack with a little more staying power. And that is where meat-based Tanka Bars come in.

If you look at the ingredient list, it’s evident immediately that Tanka Bars are not your “average Joe” meat snack. They’re based on a food called wasna, a Lakota dish dating from ancient times that used fruit and herbs to help preserve buffalo meat. Yes, these bars are made from buffalo meat.

Assortment of Tanka Bar products.

Photo of from 1891, Lakota Sioux Indian camp on River Brule near Pine Ridge, South Dakota. By John C. H. Grabill.

Unlike most jerky, the meat is hormone-free, contains no MSG, and has no added nitrates or nitrites. The buffalo are raised on open grassland and sourced from as many Indigenous American ranchers as possible. In fact, this is an Oglala Lakota business, based on the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation in South Dakota. These bars (and their associated products) are gluten-free and soy-free, and do not contain any trans fats (most, but not all, are dairy-free, as well). And most are shelf-stable (no refrigeration required) for months, so they’re also perfect for that upcoming camping trip or hike.

Tanka Bars are free of gluten, soy and trans fats.

I tasted these bars at a trade show, and I enjoyed them very much. The combination of buffalo, cranberry, and seasonings tastes far better than I thought it might (if you haven’t tasted buffalo, it doesn’t have the strong/intense flavor that some other “alternative” meats do). Best of all, these bars make a satisfying snack. Tanka Bars are offered in Traditional and Spicy Pepper Blend (habanero, jalapeno, red pepper, and black pepper). The same flavors are available in Tanka Bites, bite-sized morsels in a small, resealable package. You’ll also find Tanka Wild (meat sticks and summer sausage, both with buffalo, cranberry, and wild rice) and Tanka Dogs (buffalo hot dogs, and not shelf-stable). These products are sold in some retail stores, but of course you can order online if you prefer.

The buffalo are raised on open grassland, and the meat is hormone-free, contains no MSG, and has no added nitrates or nitrites.

Founders Karlene Hunter and Mark Tilsen imagine “a world filled with healthy foods that add to the restoration and preservation of our lands and ecosystem — a world without the pain of starvation or obesity. The world they imagine embraces the lifestyle that Native American people lived just over a century ago.” They were told they needed 16 million dollars to start a successful food company. Hunter and Tilsen didn’t have that kind of money, instead they got creative, using social media strategy (find them on Facebook, Twitter and MySpace) to market their traditionally made products. So far, it’s worked quite well. Tanka Bars have attracted a devoted following and the company shows no signs of slowing down.

Check out the feature above for more about this amazing Native American small business.