A Quiet Grass-fed Revolution

Something exciting is afoot in upstate New York. Quietly unworked dairy farms have been transitioning into grass-fed beef operations under the passionate stewardship of unconventional farmers. This new breed of Farmer comes to grass-fed farming for economic, political or even environmental reasons, but one thing that cannot be ignored is that the land was made to be grazed. Our mountain pastures grow some of the best grass in the world and our beef is being served in more restaurants and eaten and enjoyed by more people each year, all thanks to a growing and supportive customer base and innovative farming techniques.

New York State used to be a center of dairy production, but this sector has been devastated by consolidation and a push toward bigger dairies out west. Traditionally, dairy farming in Upstate New York relied heavily on grass and grazing. One such farm in Meredith, NY (which is where my family farms) was Meridale Farms. In fact, they were so successful at producing milk, high quality butter and champion Jersey cows that they became world famous. This 19th century farm was sustainable but also efficient, which is something I think is important to note — our land is so well suited to grazing that we can easily support grass-fed beef and dairy production. Raising beef in upstate New York does not require corn or other feed because our grass is high in protein and does not dry out in winter months.

Another advantage for New York State producers is access to the chefs and customers of New York City. This has been instrumental to our operation and has made this form of farming viable for many. With public food discussions focusing on farming we have seen a monumental increase in demand even with the economic downturn. Only 15 years ago my father asked about selling grass-fed beef and was met with a tepid response and told that “Americans do not like the taste.” So he focused on pasture raised lamb and rabbits instead. With books like The Omnivore’s Dilemma and movies like Food, Inc., customers are not only willing to eat grass-fed beef, they are seeking it out and celebrating it. These customers are part of the movement to forge a greater and more meaningful connection to their food. They are smart, educated and passionate, and this is why farmers are able to make a living off the land once again.

Grass-fed beef is a lot like wine in that soil, sun and rain conditions impact the flavor profiles of the meat. Many farmers believe that our unique combination of soil, rain and sun makes for such high quality and superior tasting beef that Upstate New York could become a prize-winning grass-fed beef region. And why not? We benefit from pastures that do not dry out in the middle of summer, protein rich hay that keeps the cattle healthy and happy throughout the winter months, and a climate well suited to beef production.  We also have plenty of pastureland just waiting to be used because of our dying dairy industry. It is sad to see our dairy industry die, but I do see hope in a grass-fed renewal in our rural communities, one that embraces history and community and is in balance with the land.

Photos by Ulla Kjarval.